It was not always as simple as opening the freezer and taking out a fruit or chocolate ice cream to cool down on a hot summer day. There was a time when cold was a privilege reserved for very few people. Before becoming a popular dessert, ice cream was a luxury that only the elite could enjoy.
The first versions of what we now know as ice cream had very little in common with today’s cones, cups, or colourful spoons. Their only purpose was to bring a little relief from the heat. It is believed that everything began in China, where snow was mixed with fruit pulp, or in Ancient Egypt, where chilled drinks were served with ice. The Arabs are credited with spreading these refreshing drinks and desserts across Europe, combining snow, fruit, and honey. We may not know exactly who invented ice cream, but we do know that many different cultures helped shape its history, leading to the frozen treats we enjoy every summer.
It was in Italy that ice cream truly began to take shape. In the 16th century, Blasius Villafranca, a Spanish physician living in Rome, discovered that mixing salt with ice could produce even lower temperatures. This discovery led to new recipes, and Italian cooks quickly turned simple blends of fruit and milk into a dessert worthy of aristocratic banquets. The same principle is still used today in the artisanal preparation of ice cream.
It is believed that during the Iberian Union, the Portuguese royal court developed a taste for sorbets, chilled drinks, and other chilled desserts. The problem was that, in an era without electricity or refrigeration, keeping ice available during the warmer months was a real challenge. As demand grew, ice quickly became a valuable commodity and gave rise to a business few would have imagined.
In the 18th century, this trade came under the control of Julião Pereira de Castro, a merchant appointed as the Royal Ice Supplier. To ensure a steady supply of ice for the royal court and the city of Lisbon, he acquired the Royal Ice Factory in the Serra de Montejunto, where large blocks of ice were produced during the winter and stored until summer. Transporting the ice to the capital was no easy task: it was first carried by horses and donkeys to storage sites, then by ox carts to the Vala do Carregado, before travelling by boat along the River Tagus to Lisbon. There, it supplied the royal family, noble households, and some of the city’s most prestigious cafés. Interestingly, two of those cafés belonged to Julião Pereira de Castro himself. One was in Rossio, while the other stood in Praça do Comércio. Known at the time as the Café da Neve, it would later become the historic Martinho da Arcada, Lisbon’s oldest café and a favourite haunt of the poet Fernando Pessoa.
The arrival of refrigeration brought this trade to an end, and ice cream gradually became part of everyday life in Portuguese cafés and homes. Centuries after ice travelled across the country to supply the royal court, there are still brands that make ice cream a treat enjoyed by everyone. Founded in 2011, Fini Premium Gelato is inspired by traditional Italian recipes but is produced entirely in Portugal using fresh milk, seasonal fruit, and natural ingredients. It is a reminder that the best flavours often come from the simplest ingredients.
After such a long journey through history, perhaps your next ice cream will taste even better.